PORT TOWNSEND — Leif Whittaker, who ascended to the top of Mount Everest in 2010, is taking another shot at climbing the world’s tallest mountain.
“I love mountain climbing; it is my passion,” Whittaker said.
“To have another opportunity to climb Everest wasn’t something I was going to turn down.”
Climbing Mount Everest is a family thing for Leif: His father, Jim Whittaker, was the first American to trek to the 29,029-foot summit in 1963.
For his second ascension, Leif is bringing his parents, Jim, now 83, and Dianne Roberts, who will hike the 10 days into base camp at the 17,598-foot level — by comparison, Mount Rainier is 14,411 feet tall — before Leif begins what will most likely be a two-month excursion.
The exact duration depends on the weather.
Even as he goes up and down the mountain he spends only a short time at the top, during the last trip he was at the summit for about 30 minutes.
The Whittakers leave on March 27.
There are a lot of similarities between this and Leif’s last excursion.
Both are sponsored by Eddie Bauer/First Ascent and have the same guide, Dave Hahn, as in 2010.
Whittaker’s excursion is one of two Eddie Bauer-sponsored summits this spring to prepare for the 50th anniversary of Jim Whittaker’s ascent next year.
They are taking the same route, the mountain’s west ridge and the southwest ridge, and at the same time of year.
There are differences, however.
Whittaker’s crew is smaller — four people instead of eight — and there will be no live Internet blogging this time.
“We are going to concentrate on climbing,” he said.
But if mountains don’t change, men do.
“This year I have a better idea of how my body works, and it’s good to have that knowledge going in,” Whittaker said.
“I’m better prepared physically and mentally. I know that you lose a lot of weight at high altitudes, so I’m trying to gain weight right now by eating a lot of ice cream.”
Whittaker now weighs 200 pounds. In 2010, he weighed 190 pounds at the beginning of the trip and 175 at its end.
“I’m in the best shape that I’ve ever been right now,” he said.
Book on hold
After returning from the last trip, Whittaker gave several public presentations and began writing a book about his trip up Everest, something that will now change focus.
“I have a few solid chapters written, and a 20-page proposal,” he said.
“I hope to write about my trips up Mount Everest and compare it to my father’s, using his journals and the official accounts.
“I want it to be full of pictures, be funny and literate and be something that a lot of people want to read.”
Whittaker worked last summer as a climbing guide on Whatcom County’s Mount Baker, employed by the U.S. Forest Service, and spent several months driving around the western United States with his girlfriend, Freya Fenwood, making rock climbing excursions at various locations.
The couple then spent the winter skiing in Utah, during which time they heard about the opportunity for the upcoming Everest excursion.
Might he grow up and find a real job?
“I hope I never grow up,” he laughs.
“I have given this a lot of thought, but I do have some skills like carpentry, writing and public speaking, which pay the bills.
“I don’t need much money to live right now: I’m just saving money for the next trip.”
As there is only one week before departure, Whittaker is somewhat overwhelmed.
“All the preparation and planning is making me nervous right now,” he said.
“But once I start climbing, the stress will disappear.
“I’ll be in the moment.”
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Jefferson County Reporter Charlie Bermant can be reached at 360-385-2335 or charlie.bermant@peninsuladailynews.com.
