PORT ANGELES — A new grocery store focused on local products has opened at the intersection of Pine and Eighth streets in Port Angeles.
This store isn’t like others, however. It is what board member Jenson called “an experiment.”
“It is an experiment in collaboration between different types of makers and small businesses,” they said.
In a nutshell, The Pine and Eight is a local goods-only, small grocery and fine art store owned by farmers and artists.
“We’re kind of writing the book as we go,” Jenson said. “If you treat The Pine and Eight like it should be Safeway or a major commercial retailer, you’ll be disappointed. But if you see us as a collaborative, small, hyper-local grocer and third space, then you’ll be delighted.”
Focus on farmers
“I think farmers struggle to get into retail outlets,” board member Benji Astrachan said.
As a farmer- and artisan-owned store, The Pine and Eight seeks to address that.
When looking for products to highlight at The Pine and Eight, the owners work directly with farmers and prioritize those who haven’t broken into wholesale yet and rely on once-a-week sales to sustain themselves.
Working with the farmers is about more than just the transaction, Jenson said. It’s also about educating the farmers, advocating for them and building relationships.
“I know the first name of half the people who made these products,” Jenson said.
Because of the relationships, they know when their farmers and artisans are experiencing setbacks in production or expecting a new seasonal product.
“We’re bringing that humanity into what has turned into a very cold process,” Jenson said. “Large commercial operations have badly trained us to be unethical, and maybe not very compassionate shoppers. We’re trying to challenge that.”
The store is owned by a four-member board of half-farmers, half-artisans. Jenson, who only uses their last name, said they are trying to have equal representation of these groups.
“That’s a good way to make sure all sides are advocated for,” they said.
The owners also try to prioritize hiring farmers or artisans to work in the store, Jenson said. All staff make equal hourly pay, and all decisions regarding the operation are made by vote.
“Aesthetically and content-wise, this is something novel to Port Angeles,” Astrachan said.
Community response
The Pine and Eight has been open for just more than a month. So far, board member Jennifer Stevenson said the only complaints are that people want expanded hours and more products.
The Pine and Eight is open from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Thursday to Monday.
“The response from the community has been amazing,” Astrachan said. “Unanimous enthusiasm and excitement.”
People crave access to local foods, he added, and Port Angeles doesn’t have many places that cater to local foods. While the farmers’ market is hyperlocal, it is limited to only four hours a week. Lincoln Park Grocery, McPhee’s Grocery and Country Aire also offer some local goods, “but that’s it for the Port Angeles area,” he said.
And, although the location was chosen for affordability reasons, Jenson said the team later learned it is situated in a U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) food desert.
“People between the bridges don’t actually have easy access to fresh produce,” Jenson said.
At The Pine and Eight, the owners listen to the community and try to quickly respond to needs, when possible. So far, Jenson said the most popular products have been cheese and baked goods such as baguettes, sourdough and brioche.
When tourism season ramps up, Jenson said they hope fine arts sales will ramp up and help keep the cost of food low. The also are working on getting certified to accept food stamps.
Beyond just serving as a new type of grocery store, however, the owners hope The Pine and Eight will serve as a third space — a place people can gather to hang out that is not work or home. Visitors will see a long, handmade table in the center of the room allowing people to relax and enjoy coffee, tea or a local baked good mixed with a good dose of friendship.
In the future, the owners plan to host free events and live music.
Even though the store is still in its infancy, Jenson said it already has been incorporated into people’s routines. Families will stop by the store on their nightly walk to grab a slice of cake. After school, groups of children will take over, draining the store’s supply of root beer, chocolate milk and popcorn.
“This is going to be a place where you don’t have to buy things to enjoy the community space,” Jenson said.
In the long-term, Astrachan said the dream is to expand The Pine and Eight to the other side of the building and add a commercial kitchen, which could help rescue potential food waste.
Right now, however, Jenson said they’re focusing on finding products from local, ethical enterprises at a price point that people can afford.
Whether or not this venture works “depends on the community,” Jenson said. “It’s scary for all of us.”
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Reporter Emma Maple can be reached by email at emma.maple@peninsuladailynews.com.
